Introduction: Chaos and Order in Cities
Imagine walking through a garden. In one, straight paths, symmetrical flowerbeds, and neatly trimmed shrubs, like those at Versailles.
It’s beautiful, but your gaze quickly glides over the predictable lines, and soon you’re bored. In another, winding trails, "wild" lawns, and unexpected corners, like those in London’s Hyde Park.
Here, every step is a discovery, a mystery that captivates you. Cities are like these gardens. Some, like a French park, strive for order: clear silhouettes, strict plans. Others, like an English park, embrace chaos — "weeds" in the form of crooked streets, eclectic houses, and improvised spaces. And it is this chaos that makes them alive.
Chișinău, the capital of Moldova, is a vivid example of this contrast. Its historic center is divided into two parts: the lower part, with labyrinths of chaotic streets, and the upper part, with an ordered grid filled with eclectic buildings. The new districts, by contrast, embody a sterile order devoid of soul. Tourists and artists are drawn to the lower part — the most chaotic, where the greatest value lies not in buildings but in the spaces of streets and courtyards. Unlike many European cities, where material heritage (facades, monuments — "Solid") is cherished, in Chișinău, the heart of the city is the "Void," not the "Solid." Why? Because chaos, like weeds in nature, is the norm, and the spaces of the lower part are its living soul. In this article, we will explore why the lower part of Chișinău is its heart and why preserving its "Voids" is more important than protecting its buildings.
Chaos and Order in Nature and Cities
In nature, chaos is not the exception but the rule. Weeds, such as dandelions or nettles, are the first to colonize wastelands, restore soil, and attract insects. They are a symbol of adaptability, of life that thrives against the odds. Over time, they give way to trees or grasses, but their chaotic phase is the foundation of the ecosystem. Order, by contrast, is rare, like crystals in a cave or a perfectly round pond created by humans.
Cities follow the same logic. Historic silhouettes, such as the dome of Florence or the spire of the Admiralty in St. Petersburg, are the "French parks" of urban planning, where the material "Solid" is valued. They are beautiful but require strict rules that suppress natural growth. Chaotic cities, like old Cairo or the lower part of Chișinău, are "English parks," where "weeds" (crooked streets, improvised spaces) create a vibrant, unpredictable environment. In Chișinău, this environment is not about buildings but about "Voids": narrow lanes, hidden courtyards, small squares where life unfolds. Psychologically, these spaces attract: they spark curiosity, promise discoveries, like a labyrinth where a surprise awaits around every corner. Culturally, they are valuable because they preserve not only history but also human energy.
Chișinău is a microcosm of this conflict. Its lower part is a wild meadow where the chaos of "Voids" reigns freely. The upper part is a compromise, where the order of the grid is filled with eclectic "weeds." The new districts are a sterile garden, devoid of mystery. To understand why the lower part is the most fascinating, let’s explore the city in detail.
The Historic Center of Chișinău: Two Faces of the City
Chișinău’s historic center comprises two worlds, separated not only by topography but also by philosophy. The lower part, situated in the valley, is a labyrinth of streets that grew organically, like a field of weeds. The upper part, on the hills, is a rational grid established in the 19th century but filled with chaotic construction. The new districts, sprawling on the outskirts, are an attempt to impose linear order, but they lack soul.
The Lower Part: A Wild Meadow of "Voids"
The lower part of Chișinău is chaos in its purest form. Streets like Strada Sf. Andrei or Strada Habad Liubavici wind without an apparent plan, curving around old houses, churches, and courtyards. Here, you find 19th-century mansions with peeling plaster, Soviet additions, and improvised stalls, but the true value lies not in the buildings but in the spaces between them: narrow alleys, hidden courtyards, tiny squares. These are traces of the Ottoman past, when the city grew as a trading settlement, and of later eras, when residents shaped the space spontaneously. Like a wild meadow, this part seems disorderly, but its "Voids" are its strength: every corner is a stage for life, every courtyard a mystery.
The Upper Part: A Grid with Eclecticism
The upper part, around Ștefan cel Mare Boulevard, is an attempt at order. After the 1830s, when Chișinău became a gubernatorial center of the Russian Empire, a clear street grid inspired by classicism was laid out. But within this grid, construction evolved chaotically: classical buildings stand alongside Soviet panel blocks, modernist mansions, and modern glass offices. It’s like an English park, where strict paths frame "wild" growth. The eclecticism makes this part interesting, but its spaces are wider, less intimate, and the "Voids" lose their magic compared to the lower part.
The New Districts: Sterile Order
The new districts, such as Botanica or Rîșcani, are a "French park." They are planned linearly: wide boulevards, standardized residential complexes, shopping centers. Functionality is top-notch, but there’s no history or unpredictability. The spaces here are not "Voids" but wastelands: broad roads and parking lots devoid of human life. Tourists and artists bypass them because they lack what makes a city alive.
Historical Context
Chișinău was shaped at the crossroads of cultures: Ottoman, Russian, Soviet. The lower part retains traces of spontaneous growth, when the city was a trading hub, and its streets and courtyards were stages for commerce and interaction. The upper part reflects the imperial ambitions of the 19th century but couldn’t suppress the chaos that broke through in new constructions. The new districts are products of Soviet and post-Soviet planning, prioritizing utility. This contrast makes Chișinău unique, but the lower part stands out as its heart due to its "Voids."
The Lower Part of Chișinău: The Soul of "Voids"
The lower part of Chișinău is not just a district but a living fabric of the city, woven from chaos that makes it a magnet for tourists, artists, and those seeking authenticity. Streets like Strada Sf. Andrei and Strada Habad Liubavici are labyrinths where value lies not in buildings but in the spaces between them. Unlike European cities like Florence or Prague, where the main value is material heritage (cathedral facades, palaces), in Chișinău, the heart is the "Void": narrow lanes, hidden courtyards, improvised squares. There are no grandiose monuments here, but there’s a sense that the city breathes, telling its stories through spaces where life unfolds.
The Atmosphere of "Voids"
Walking along Strada Sf. Andrei, you notice not just an old house with carved shutters but a narrow alley leading to a courtyard where children play and an elderly woman waters flowers. On Strada Habad Liubavici, the value is not in the half-abandoned synagogue but in the small square in front of it, where locals sell vegetables and young people drink coffee on makeshift benches. These "Voids" are the result of centuries of organic growth: Ottoman bazaars, Jewish quarters, and Moldovan courtyards shaped not buildings but spaces for interaction. Like in nature, where weeds fill wastelands, these "Voids" are the foundation of Chișinău’s life.
A Mystery for Tourists
Tourists, accustomed to the postcard views of Paris or Vienna, find something different in Chișinău’s lower part — the authenticity of "Voids." There are no imposing cathedrals or grand boulevards, but there are labyrinths of streets promising surprises: a courtyard with a fig tree, a market with homemade wine, a corner with street art. These spaces beckon, like the paths of an English park, where every turn is a discovery. Unlike European cities that value "Solid" (buildings), in Chișinău, tourists photograph "Voids": shadows on cobblestones, laundry drying in courtyards, improvised benches. This "mystery" makes the lower part a place where you want to linger.
Inspiration for Artists
Artists and photographers see Chișinău’s "Voids" as an endless source of inspiration. Not facades but spaces create visual richness: the shadows of trees on the cobblestones of Strada Sf. Andrei, the contrast of bright signs and gray walls on Strada Habad Liubavici, courtyards where life flows slowly. These "Voids" are like scenes from Tarkovsky’s films, where space speaks louder than objects. Chaos here is not a flaw but a virtue, like in an English park, where "wild" corners captivate more than symmetrical paths.
Specific Corners
Strada Sf. Andrei: The value of this street lies not in houses but in alleys and courtyards. One courtyard is a playground for children, another an impromptu market. Narrow lanes create intimacy, reminiscent of old Tbilisi, where space matters more than buildings.
Strada Habad Liubavici: The square in front of the synagogue is a living "Void," where people trade, argue, and rest. The surrounding alleys are a labyrinth, each turn revealing a new corner: a café, a piece of street art. It’s like Lisbon’s Alfama, where streets are the main value.
Courtyards: Hidden behind houses, they are the heart of the lower part. One has a fig tree and a bench, another an improvised stage for musicians. These "Voids," like "wild" meadows, are stages for life.
Comparison with Other Cities
Chișinău’s lower part is unique but echoes rare examples where "Void" is valued. In Lisbon’s Alfama, streets and courtyards matter more than buildings: tourists seek taverns and views, not facades. In Berlin’s Kreuzberg, spaces — graffiti, cafés, markets — create a "mystery," like on Strada Habad Liubavici. Old Tbilisi cherishes courtyards and balconies where life thrives, not just houses. But unlike Florence or Prague, where facades are restored, Chișinău teaches us: preserve the "Voids" where stories are born.
Historical Depth of "Voids"
The chaos of the lower part is a layering of history imprinted in spaces. Ottoman bazaars left narrow streets and squares, Jewish communities added courtyards and alleys, the Russian era brought mansion courtyards, and the Soviet period introduced improvised additions. The square on Strada Habad Liubavici is a trace of Jewish culture that flourished in Chișinău until the 20th century. Markets and courtyards echo Ottoman bazaars, where trade was the city’s heart. These "Voids" are like tree rings, narrating the past. Unlike European cities, where history is in stone, in Chișinău, it’s in the spaces where people met, traded, and lived.
Why "Void" Attracts
The "Voids" of the lower part attract because they are human. Narrow streets create intimacy, courtyards a sense of home, squares a space for connection. Unlike the monumental "Solid" of European cities, these spaces belong to people, not architects. Tourists photograph life: children in courtyards, elders at markets. Artists paint not facades but shadows, cobblestones, improvisation. Like in an English park, where "wild" corners beckon, Chișinău’s "Voids" are spaces where you want to be.
The Upper Part and New Districts: Contrast with "Voids"
The upper part of Chișinău, with its street grid around Ștefan cel Mare Boulevard, is a compromise between order and chaos. The grid, established in the 19th century, creates a rational framework, but within it grow "weeds": classical buildings, modernist mansions, Soviet panel blocks, modern offices. The spaces here are wider, less intimate, and the "Voids" lose vitality. On Strada Vlaicu Pârcălab, you see contrasts — an old theater next to a glass bank — but the wide streets and predictable layout lack the "mystery" of the lower part.
The new districts, like Botanica or Rîșcani, are a "French park" without soul. Wide boulevards and parking lots are not "Voids" but wastelands devoid of human energy. They are functional but uninspiring. Tourists don’t photograph panel blocks, artists don’t paint supermarkets. Unlike the courtyards on Strada Sf. Andrei, there’s no space for life here.
Why the Upper Part Falls Short
The upper part is interesting for its eclectic buildings, but its spaces are less human. Wide streets create distance, and "Voids" are rare and formal. History on Strada Vlaicu Pârcălab exists, but it’s in facades, not living spaces. It’s an English park with too much order, where "weeds" exist but "Void" doesn’t dominate.
The Problem with New Districts
The new districts ignore the value of "Voids." Their spaces are roads and parking lots, not courtyards or squares. They solve utilitarian problems but offer no room for spontaneity. It’s a garden without "wild" flowers, lacking mystery.
How to Preserve and Restore Chișinău’s "Voids"
To keep the lower part of Chișinău as its heart, we must protect and restore its "Voids," like a gardener nurturing the "wild" corners of an English park. Unlike European cities that restore buildings, in Chișinău, the priority is spaces.
Protecting the "Voids" of the Lower Part
Preserving Streets and Courtyards: Streets like Strada Sf. Andrei and Strada Habad Liubavici must be safeguarded from widening or construction. Narrow alleys and courtyards are the main value, not buildings. Demolishing houses is acceptable if it preserves the "Void."
Restoring Lost Spaces: Where courtyards have been built over or streets straightened, "Voids" should be recreated. For example, on Strada Habad Liubavici, later additions could be removed to restore the square in front of the synagogue.
Supporting Life: Encourage cafés, markets, and festivals in courtyards and squares. A courtyard on Strada Sf. Andrei could become a stage for street concerts, like in Lisbon.
Guiding "Voids" in the Upper Part
The upper part can become livelier by adding "Voids." On Strada Vlaicu Pârcălab, pedestrian zones, courtyards, and improvised squares could be created. New buildings should shape spaces, not just facades, using Moldovan motifs for harmony.
Reviving New Districts
New districts like Botanica need "Voids":
Courtyards and Squares: Replace parking lots with green courtyards, like in Copenhagen.
Street Culture: Graffiti, pop-up cafés, and markets, like in Berlin, would bring life.
Improvisation: Temporary spaces for festivals or fairs would add spontaneity.
Examples of Best Practices
Lisbon: Alfama preserves its streets, while new districts like Parque das Nações create modern "Voids." Chișinău could protect Strada Sf. Andrei but add courtyards in Botanica.
Tokyo: Temples and skyscrapers surround vibrant squares. Chișinău’s upper part could benefit from such spaces.
Copenhagen: Green "Voids" enliven new districts. Botanica could adopt this model.
Community Involvement
Residents are key to preserving "Voids." Public hearings, like in London, can protect courtyards from construction. Local initiatives — artists, café owners — already shape the lower part. They must be supported, like a gardener tending "wild" flowers.
Conclusion: "Voids" as the Norm of the Future
The lower part of Chișinău, with its labyrinths of Strada Sf. Andrei and Strada Habad Liubavici, is the soul of the city, its "English park," where the chaos of "Voids" creates a mystery that draws tourists and artists. Unlike European cities that value "Solid," in Chișinău, the essence is "Void": spaces where life pulses. Like weeds in nature, these "Voids" are the norm, reflecting the city’s natural growth. The upper part, with its eclecticism on Strada Vlaicu Pârcălab, offers balance but is less vibrant. The new districts, like a French park, are functional but soulless.
Chișinău teaches us: valuing "Voids" means valuing the city’s heart. By preserving and restoring the streets and courtyards of the lower part, guiding chaos in the upper part, and creating "Voids" in new districts, Chișinău can become a model for cities where order and mystery coexist. In a world where globalization erases differences, the "Voids" of the lower part are what make Chișinău unique. May its "wild" spaces continue to beckon, like an English park, where every corner is a new discovery. The future of cities lies in the chaos of "Voids," which, like weeds, will always find a way to thrive.